Faucet, tools, and a fresh brass sink, ready for the swap.
Replacing a bathroom faucet, or a bathroom tap if you're in the UK, is one of the more approachable plumbing jobs in the house. In most cases you're not touching any pipework behind the wall, just the fixture itself and the two supply lines feeding it. This guide walks through the tools you need, how to remove the old faucet, the step-by-step replacement, and what it typically costs whether you do it yourself or bring in a plumber.
- Most bathroom faucet replacements are a same-hole swap: turn off the water, disconnect two supply lines, remove the mounting nut, and reverse the process with the new faucet.
- You don't strictly need a basin wrench. Slip-joint pliers or an adjustable wrench work in most cases if you have enough room to reach the mounting nuts.
- Expect to pay roughly 170 to 360 dollars for a professional replacement in the US, or as little as 30 to 100 dollars in materials if you DIY with tools you already own.
- A cartridge or washer swap can often fix a dripping faucet without a full replacement, worth checking before you buy a new fixture.
- Polished copper or brass supply lines can be custom-made to match a brass faucet, available on request the same way Insideast's custom hole covers and extension tubes are.
Tools and Preparation
The Same Basic Kit
A basin wrench, adjustable wrench, Teflon tape, a hex key, a bucket or towel, and a flashlight cover nearly every deck-mount faucet swap, kitchen or bathroom. A basin wrench makes reaching the mounting nut easier in a tight cabinet, but isn't strictly required, slip-joint pliers can work if there's enough clearance.
These are the same tools covered in more depth in our kitchen faucet installation guide, since the hardware doesn't change based on which room the sink is in. Add plumber's putty or silicone sealant depending on your sink material, and new supply hoses if your existing ones are old or a different length than your new faucet needs.
Before removing anything, confirm your new faucet's hole configuration matches what your sink already has. A single-hole faucet will not directly replace a widespread or centerset faucet without a hole cover, and vice versa, our single-hole faucet compatibility guide covers how to check this. If you're still deciding on a style, the bathroom faucets collection is a good place to compare options side by side.
"Happy Monday! Swipe to see the befores of my bathroom. The previous owners loved this tile, a reminder a home takes time." Faucet: @insideastdesigns.
Removing the Old Faucet or Tap
Most replacements start with a dated or worn original faucet like the one shown in that post, a starting point that's more common than a picture-perfect vanity.
Turn off the valves and disconnect the supply lines before anything else.
1. Turn off the water supply
Locate the shutoff valves under the sink, usually two, one for hot and one for cold, and turn them clockwise until fully closed. If there are no dedicated shutoffs, you'll need to turn off the water supply to the whole house at the main valve.
2. Relieve the pressure
Open the faucet handles to let any remaining water in the lines drain out before you disconnect anything. This also confirms the water is actually off before you start loosening fittings.
3. Disconnect the supply lines
Using an adjustable wrench, loosen the nuts connecting the supply hoses to the shutoff valves, then the nuts connecting them to the faucet's tailpieces. Have a towel underneath, there's usually a small amount of water still in the lines even after step two.
A basin wrench reaches the mounting nut behind the basin, where a standard wrench usually can't.
4. Remove the mounting nuts
Reach up under the sink and loosen the mounting nut or nuts holding the faucet base to the deck. This is where a basin wrench earns its keep, since the nut usually sits directly behind the sink basin, out of easy reach for a standard wrench.
5. Lift out the old faucet
Once the mounting hardware is off, the faucet should lift straight up and out. Old faucets that have been in place for years can stick from mineral buildup or dried plumber's putty, a bit of gentle twisting usually breaks the seal loose.
Step-by-Step Replacement
Once your old faucet is out and your new one is unboxed and ready to go in, the sequence below is the same whether it's a bathroom vanity or a kitchen sink.
Seal, seat, and secure the new faucet before anything gets connected.
1. Prep the sink and the new faucet
Wipe down the sink deck around the hole to remove any old putty or mineral residue. If your faucet's base needs a seal, apply a quarter-inch bead of plumber's putty around the underside, or use silicone instead for cultured marble, quartz, or natural stone, since putty can stain some stone surfaces.
2. Set the faucet into the hole
Feed the faucet's tailpieces and mounting hardware down through the sink's hole or holes from above, then press the base down firmly to seat it against the deck. Wipe away any sealant that squeezes out around the edge before it sets.
3. Secure the mounting nut
From underneath, hand-tighten the mounting nut or nuts first, then give a final quarter turn with your basin wrench or pliers. Snug is enough, overtightening can crack a stone or porcelain sink or strip the threads on the faucet's shank.
Connect the supply lines, then run the water and check every joint for drips.
4. Connect the supply lines
Wrap the threaded connections in plumber's tape, then attach the hot and cold supply hoses to the faucet's tailpieces and the corresponding shutoff valves, hand-tight first, then a final quarter to half turn with a wrench.
5. Turn the water back on and test
Open the shutoff valves slowly and run the faucet for a few minutes, checking every connection underneath for drips. A slightly damp fitting after the first minute is common as trapped air works out, if it's still dripping after that, snug the connection a bit further rather than assuming a part is faulty.
beautifulspacesinc: "We love how this powder room turned out. The faucet from @insideastdesigns is handmade unlacquered brass." View post
This is what the finished swap looks like in a real powder room, a new faucet is a small physical change with an outsized visual effect on the whole vanity.
Matching Accessories: Supply Lines, Drains, and Traps
Most replacement faucets, including standard hardware store kits, come with plain braided steel supply hoses. If you'd rather the visible plumbing under the sink match your faucet's finish, Insideast can custom-make polished copper or brass supply lines on request, the same way custom hole covers and extension tubes are made to order rather than stocked as a standard product.
This is purely a finish choice, not a functional upgrade, braided steel is reliable and what most faucets ship with by default. It's worth considering if the cabinet under your sink is visible storage rather than a closed door, or if you're going for a fully coordinated look top to bottom. Email contact@insideast.com with your faucet model and valve connection size to get a quote.
While you're replacing the faucet
A faucet swap is also a natural point to replace the smaller hardware around it, since it's already exposed and disconnected. Sink strainers, drain flanges, pop-up stoppers, and P-traps are all visible parts of the setup that mismatch quickly if only the faucet gets upgraded. Insideast carries these in matching brass and copper finishes:
An Exposed Trap That's Meant to Be Seen
If your under-sink plumbing is visible rather than tucked behind a closed cabinet, an exposed brass S-trap turns a purely functional part into a detail worth looking at, instead of the usual mismatched chrome.
A Small Detail That Gets Noticed
A copper strainer basket is one of the smallest parts of a sink, and one of the most handled, worth matching to the rest of the fixture rather than leaving as an afterthought.
- Browse all brass and copper sink strainers and flanges
- Browse all solid brass P-traps and bottle traps
Cost: DIY vs Plumber
| Consideration | DIY | Professional Plumber |
|---|---|---|
| Typical cost (US) | About 30 to 100 dollars in materials if you already own basic tools | 170 to 360 dollars total is typical, averaging around 270 dollars; labor alone usually runs 130 to 350 dollars |
| Time | 1 to 2 hours for a first attempt, faster once you've done it before | Usually 1 hour for a straightforward swap |
| Best for | A like-for-like swap where the new faucet matches your sink's existing holes | Old or corroded supply lines, a different hole configuration than what you have, or added peace of mind |
| Risk if something's wrong | A missed leak can go unnoticed until it damages the cabinet below | Licensed plumbers typically guarantee their work |
These US figures come from HomeAdvisor's 2026 cost data. UK pricing for a tap swap varies more by region and by whether the job is quoted hourly or as a flat callout, so it's worth getting two or three local quotes to compare rather than relying on a single national average.
Before
After, with an Insideast faucet installed
jennalyonsnyc: "After to before. A more open counter helps. I also lengthened the counter space by creating open shelving at the end, which gave me a lot more storage and counter space. It made the kitchen feel much bigger." Faucet: @insideastdesigns · View post
This particular before-and-after is a kitchen counter refresh rather than a bathroom, but the faucet swap itself is the same basic job either way, and it's a good example of how much a single fixture change can shift the feel of a space.
How much does it cost to replace a bathroom faucet?
In the US, a professional replacement typically runs 170 to 360 dollars total, averaging around 270 dollars, with labor alone usually 130 to 350 dollars depending on your area and the faucet's complexity. A DIY swap with tools you already own can cost as little as 30 to 100 dollars in materials. Premium fixtures or extra plumbing work can push either option higher.
How do I replace a faucet cartridge?
Turn off the water, then pry off the decorative cap on the handle and remove the screw underneath to lift the handle away. Unscrew or unclip the retaining nut holding the cartridge, pull the old cartridge straight up, and press the new one in the same orientation. Reassemble the handle and turn the water back on slowly to check for drips before fully opening the valve.
How do I replace a tap washer in the UK?
Turn off the isolation valve, then unscrew the tap's headgear or handle assembly to expose the washer at the base of the spindle. Pop off the old rubber washer with a screwdriver, fit a new one of matching size, and reassemble in reverse order. Older cross-head taps use a simple washer like this, while most modern single lever taps use a ceramic disc cartridge instead.
Do I need a plumber to replace a bathroom faucet?
Not usually, if your new faucet matches your sink's existing hole configuration and you're comfortable working under a sink with basic hand tools. A plumber is worth hiring if your supply lines are old or corroded, your new faucet needs a different hole count than what your sink has, or you'd rather not risk a leak behind a finished countertop.
What if I don't have a basin wrench?
A basin wrench just makes reaching the mounting nuts in a tight space easier. Slip-joint pliers or an adjustable wrench can work instead if there's enough clearance under your sink, sometimes with a short extension or a second pair of hands to hold the faucet steady from above while you turn the nut from below.
Once your new faucet is in and tested, a little routine care keeps it looking its best; see our guide on maintaining unlacquered brass long term. Browse the full bathroom faucets collection, or add 3 or more pieces to your cart for 15% off across bath fixtures.
