Most faucet repairs come down to one inexpensive part and a few basic tools.
Most faucet repair comes down to four fixes: clean the aerator, replace a worn washer or cartridge, replace the O-rings, or tighten or replace a supply line. Work out where the water appears and what the symptom is, shut off the supply, replace only the matching part, and test slowly. Most jobs take 30 to 60 minutes and cost far less than a new faucet.
Faucet repair is rarely as big a job as it looks. Behind a drip, a weak stream, a stiff handle or a noisy pipe there is usually one worn part: a washer, a cartridge, an O-ring, an aerator or a hose. Finding which one is most of the work.
This guide is for anyone with a kitchen or bathroom faucet (a tap, if you are in the UK) who wants to fix the problem themselves, or at least understand what a plumber should be fixing. It covers how to match each symptom to its cause, what to keep in a repair kit, how to identify your faucet type, how to repair a washer, cartridge, ball or ceramic disc faucet, how to fix a pull-down faucet head, when replacing is the smarter call, and what repairs cost.
- Where the water appears tells you the part: spout tip (washer or cartridge), spout base or handle (O-ring), cabinet (supply line).
- Identify the type (compression, cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc) before ordering parts, because they are not interchangeable.
- A weak stream from one faucet is most often a clogged aerator, and a quick fix.
- For a weak pull-down spray, remove the head first: strong flow from the bare hose means the head is blocked, weak flow means look further back.
- Replace the small parts together, and match cartridges to the exact brand and model.
- Repair when the body is sound; replace when it is corroded, pitted, or failing in new places.
Match the symptom to the part
Buying parts before you know where the problem sits is a common repair mistake. Spend two minutes watching the faucet run and checking where the water appears, then use this table to narrow it down.
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Usual fix | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drip from the spout, faucet off | Worn washer and seat, or worn cartridge | Replace washer or cartridge | Easy to moderate |
| Water at the spout base or under the handle while running | Worn O-ring | Replace O-rings | Easy |
| Water pooling in the cabinet | Loose or worn supply line or valve connection | Tighten or replace the line | Easy to moderate |
| Weak flow from one faucet | Clogged aerator, or partly closed shutoff valve | Clean aerator, open valve fully | Easy |
| Weak pull-down or pull-out spray | Blocked head, aerator, hose, or diverter | Clean or replace the part | Easy to moderate |
| Stiff handle | Mineral buildup or worn cartridge | Clean, grease, or replace cartridge | Moderate |
| Wobbly handle | Loose set screw | Tighten the screw | Easy |
| Whistle or squeal | Worn washer or cartridge, or restricted flow | Replace the part, clean the aerator | Easy to moderate |
| Banging when the water shuts off | Water hammer in the supply pipes | Secure loose pipes; call a plumber if it persists | Plumber advised |
Identify your faucet type
Parts are not interchangeable between faucet types, so identify yours before ordering anything. The quickest way is to shut off the water, remove the handle, and see what is underneath. As iFixit's leaky faucet guide notes, a ceramic disc faucet has a cylinder beneath the handle, a ball faucet has a round joint in the same place, and two-handled faucets are usually cartridge or compression type.
If you cannot tell, search your faucet's brand and model number with "parts diagram", or take the removed part to a hardware store and match it by eye.
Common faucet problems and fixes
Before touching any faucet, close the shutoff valves under the sink, open the faucet to release pressure, and plug the drain so small screws cannot fall in. Take a photo at each stage of disassembly so reassembly is straightforward.
Dripping from the spout
A drip with the faucet fully off means the internal shutoff seal has worn: a washer and valve seat on an older two-handle faucet, or a cartridge on a single-handle one. The part is cheap, the fix is quick, and the details differ enough by faucet type that we cover them separately in our guide to fixing a dripping faucet or tap, including why a drip can return after a new cartridge. The condensed version is in the repair by faucet type section below.
Leaking at the spout base or under the handle
Water that seeps out while the faucet runs, rather than dripping when it is off, usually comes from a worn O-ring. On a swivel kitchen spout, the O-rings sit around the spout base and wear from years of turning. On a single-handle faucet, they sit around the cartridge under the handle. O-rings are inexpensive and sold in assortments, so replace them as a set and lubricate the new ones with plumber's grease before seating them.
Leaking under the sink
Water in the cabinet is often not the faucet at all. Check the supply lines and the connections at the shutoff valves with a dry paper towel, because a slow weep is easy to miss by eye. Tighten a loose connection a little at a time, since over-tightening can crack a fitting or deform a washer. If a flexible supply line is corroded, kinked, or still weeping after tightening, replace it.
Low pressure or weak flow
If only one faucet is weak, the aerator is the first suspect. This is the small screen at the spout tip, and hard water deposits and sediment collect in it over time. Cleaning it takes about 30 minutes including the soak.
Cleaning a Faucet Aerator
- Unscrew the aerator from the spout tip by hand, or with a cloth-wrapped wrench or the aerator key supplied with some faucets.
- Disassemble it and note the order of the parts as they come off.
- Remove sediment with a soft brush or toothpick.
- Soak the parts separately in diluted white vinegar for 15 to 20 minutes, then rinse well.
- Reassemble, refit, and run the water for a few seconds to flush loosened debris.
A faucet aerator taken apart. Designs vary by model.
Inside an Aerator
Four parts to clean
Lay the parts out in the order they came off: the outer housing, the mesh screen, the flow insert and the rubber washer. Scale collects on the screen and insert first. Some aerators are a single sealed unit that you replace rather than clean.
If the aerator is damaged, replace it with one of the same flow rating. The EPA's WaterSense program labels bathroom faucets and aerators that flow at 1.5 gallons per minute or less at 60 psi, against the standard federal maximum of 2.2 gallons per minute, so if your old aerator has a gpm marking, match it when you buy a new one (EPA WaterSense fact sheet on bathroom faucets).
If cleaning does not help, check that both shutoff valves are fully open and whether other faucets are weak too. Our faucet flow rate guide covers what normal flow looks like and the next checks, and the water pressure guide covers house-wide causes.
Stiff or loose handle
A stiff handle usually points to mineral buildup or a worn cartridge or stem. Remove the handle, clean the cartridge area, and lubricate the O-rings with plumber's grease. If the handle is still stiff, replace the cartridge with an exact match. A handle that wobbles instead is almost always a loose set screw, which you can reach with an Allen key under the decorative cap or on the handle's side.
Whistling, squealing, or banging
A whistle or squeal while the water runs is usually the same worn washer or cartridge that causes drips, vibrating as water passes through it, or a partial restriction such as a half-closed valve or mineral buildup. Repairing those two parts often fixes the noise. A bang when you shut the water off is a different problem, known as water hammer, and it comes from the supply pipes rather than the faucet. Secure any loose pipes you can reach, and call a plumber if it continues, since the fix may involve the pipework behind the wall.
DIY faucet repair kit essentials
A small kit covers nearly every repair in this guide. The most important rule is that faucet parts are not universal: note the brand and model, and where possible take the old part with you to match it.
Repair Kit Checklist
- Adjustable wrench, plus a basin wrench for tight spaces under the sink
- Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips) and a set of Allen keys
- Needle-nose pliers for pulling small parts and diverters
- Plumber's grease and plumber's tape
- Assorted O-rings and washers, plus a cartridge matched to your exact model
- A replacement aerator with the same flow rating as the original
- Spare supply lines in the right length and connector type
- A towel, a small bowl, and white vinegar
The Small Seals
O-rings come in many sizes
O-rings are round-section rubber seals that sit around cartridges, stems and spout bases. Sizes vary a lot, so match each one to the part you remove, or keep an assortment on hand.
An O-ring assortment. Match each seal's size to the part you are replacing.
Supply lines, drains, and similar small parts are in our drains and hardware collection, which is worth a look before you start so a missing part does not stall the job halfway.
A Note for Unlacquered Brass and Copper Faucets
Wrap the jaws of your wrench in a cloth or tape before gripping the body, since steel can mark soft brass. Keep vinegar for removed aerator parts only, and never leave it on the faucet body: extended contact strips the patina along with the scale. Our brass cleaning guide covers the safe routine, and the long-term maintenance guide explains how to look after the finish between repairs.
Repairing by faucet type
The sequence is broadly the same for every type: isolate the water, take the faucet apart in order, replace the worn seals or the whole part, and test slowly. Only the part you replace changes. Your model may differ in detail, so use the manual where you have it.
Cartridge or Washer Replacement
- Shut off the supply valves, open the faucet to release pressure, and plug the drain.
- Remove the decorative cap and handle screw, then lift off the handle.
- Remove the retainer nut or clip holding the cartridge, or unscrew the stem on a two-handle faucet.
- Pull the cartridge straight out. A cartridge puller helps if mineral buildup has stuck it.
- Compare the old part with the new one. On a washer faucet, replace the washer and check the valve seat for pitting.
- Replace the O-rings at the same time, and lubricate them with plumber's grease.
- Seat the new part fully, rebuild in reverse order, and turn the water on slowly.
- Run the faucet through its full range, hot and cold, and check for drips for a few minutes.
Compression faucets (washer)
Two-handle compression faucets leak because the rubber washer at the base of the stem hardens or wears unevenly. Replace the washer with an exact match, replace the stem's O-ring, and check the valve seat beneath it. A pitted seat will stop a new washer sealing, so smooth it or replace it if it is rough.
Cartridge faucets
Follow the steps above. If the leak continues after a new cartridge, the usual causes are a part that is not an exact match, an O-ring left in place, or debris lodged against the new cartridge. Replacing the O-rings and seals together helps avoid a repeat leak.
Ball-type faucets
Ball faucets have a rotating ball under a dome cap, with rubber seats and springs for hot and cold. Remove the handle, then the adjusting ring and dome cap, and lift out the ball assembly. Pry out the seats and springs on both the hot and cold sides and replace both sets, along with the cam and packing if the leak is there. Manufacturer instructions for ball faucets also suggest flushing debris from the lines before reassembly: with the aerator off, open the supply valves briefly with an upturned bucket over the faucet to contain the spray, then shut them off again. Seat the ball with its pin aligned to the slot in the valve body, hand-tighten the cap before using pliers on the adjusting ring, and test. Do not force the cap, since it can bend.
Ceramic disc faucets
Ceramic disc faucets are durable, and the leaks are usually in the seals rather than the discs. Remove the handle and escutcheon cap, unscrew the cylinder's mounting screws, and lift the cylinder out. Lift the neoprene seals from the base with a blunt tool, clean the openings with white vinegar and a soft pad, rinse, and replace any damaged seals. Reassemble with the handle in the on position and open the water slowly, since a sudden rush can crack the discs. If the discs themselves are cracked, replace the whole cylinder.
Repairing a pull-down faucet head
Pull-down and pull-out faucets add a hose, a spray head, and a diverter that switches water between the spout and the spray. That makes them more repairable than they look, because most problems sit in the head, the hose, or the diverter, and each is straightforward to test.
Step one: is it the head or something further back?
Turn off the water and unscrew the spray head from the hose. Clip a clothespin or small clamp on the hose so it cannot slide back into the spout, then turn the water on gradually. As Family Handyman explains in its guide to a weak pull-out sprayer, strong flow from the bare hose means the spray head is the problem, while weak flow points to the faucet or supply lines.
If the head is blocked
Look inside the hose end of the head for a small inlet screen, lift it out gently, and clear the holes with a pin or soak it in vinegar. Beneath it, many heads have a small backflow disc: press it lightly to confirm it moves freely, and clean mineral deposits from its edges. Then unscrew and descale the aerator or nozzle face as described earlier. Plastic or steel heads can take a longer vinegar soak. If your head is unlacquered brass, limit diluted vinegar to the removed screen and aerator parts for 15 to 20 minutes, rinse well, and keep it off the exterior, as in the brass note above. If the head is cracked or stays clogged after cleaning, replacement heads run roughly $10 to $40, with universal heads at the low end and brand-specific heads at the high end.
Inside a Spray Head
What sits behind the nozzle
Behind the nozzle face are a mesh screen, a flow insert and rubber O-rings, and the hose ends on a fitting that unscrews or pulls apart. Scale collects on the screen and insert first, which is why cleaning them is the first fix for a weak spray. Your head's layout will differ.
A spray head taken apart. Check your own model's manual for exact layout.
If flow from the bare hose is weak
Weak flow with the head removed points further back: a kinked hose, debris in the hose, or a faulty diverter. Straighten any kinks under the sink first. If your hose uses a quick-connect fitting, release it by pulling back the collar, disconnect the hose, and flush it with water. A diverter that is worn or clogged can cause a weak spray, a pulsing spray, or water continuing to run from the spout while the sprayer is on. Where it sits varies by model, since on some faucets it is inside the body and on others it is on the hose, so find your manual or a parts diagram before you start. Clean the diverter, replace any cracked O-rings or washers, and replace the whole part if it is damaged.
If it leaks at the head or the hose connection
Water at the coupling where the hose meets the head, or at the hose connection under the sink, usually means a loose fitting or a worn washer or O-ring inside it. Snug the fitting by hand first, then replace the washer if it is cracked. A hose that is cracked or weeping along its length should be replaced rather than patched.
If the head will not retract
Check that the counterweight is still attached to the hose, that the hose is not twisted or kinked, and that nothing stored in the cabinet is catching it. A hose that has stretched or cracked should be replaced rather than patched.
When to replace instead
Most faucet repairs are worth doing. A washer, O-ring, cartridge, or aerator costs little, and the job is within reach of anyone comfortable with basic hand tools. Replacement makes more sense when the faucet body itself is the problem: corrosion or pitting in the metal, a finish that has failed structurally rather than aged naturally, parts that are no longer available for an older model, or a faucet that has already had several repairs and keeps failing in new places.
At that point, a cycle of small repairs usually costs more in time and parts than one well-made faucet. If you do decide to swap, browse our solid brass kitchen faucets, and see our guides to replacing a bathroom faucet and installing a kitchen faucet walk through the full process.
Cost: DIY vs professional
The cost gap between a DIY repair and a plumber is large, which is the main reason to try the simple fixes first.
| Option | Typical cost (US) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| DIY washer, O-ring kit, or cartridge | Roughly $5 to $60 | Washers and O-rings cost a few dollars; cartridges cost more, depending on brand |
| Replacement spray head | Roughly $10 to $40 | Universal heads cost less, brand-specific heads cost more; check for warranty cover first |
| Plumber, standard faucet repair | Roughly $100 to $300 | Some sources put the upper end nearer $400 |
| Plumber labor | $45 to $200 per hour | Many charge a one hour minimum |
I would treat these as planning ranges rather than quotes. They are US averages from cost guides and retail listings, including Angi's leaky faucet repair breakdown, and they move with region, faucet brand, and how accessible the plumbing is. UK costs differ, so get a local quote before committing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I fix a leaking faucet?
Start by locating the leak. Water from the spout tip usually means a worn washer or cartridge, water at the spout base or under the handle usually means a worn O-ring, and water in the cabinet points to a loose or worn supply line. Shut off the supply, replace the matching part, reassemble, and turn the water back on slowly.
How do I fix a leaky single-handle faucet?
Shut off the water, remove the handle, and lift out the cartridge, ball assembly, or ceramic cylinder, depending on your type. Replace the O-rings and seals, or the whole cartridge if it is worn, using an exact match. Grease the O-rings and open the water slowly. If a kitchen leak comes from the sprayer, check the hose and diverter instead.
How do I fix a leaky faucet with two handles?
Older two-handle compression faucets usually leak from a worn rubber washer. Shut off the water, remove the handle, unscrew the stem, replace the washer at its base, and check the valve seat for pitting. Replace the stem's O-ring too. Some two-handle faucets use cartridges or ceramic discs instead, so identify the type first.
How do I repair a pull-down faucet head?
Turn off the water, unscrew the spray head from the hose, and test the flow with the head removed. Strong flow means the head is blocked: clear the inlet screen, check the backflow disc, and descale the aerator. Weak flow points to the hose, diverter, or supply. Replace the head if it stays clogged or cracked.
How much does faucet repair cost?
DIY parts typically cost about $5 to $60, depending on whether you need a washer, an O-ring kit, or a brand-specific cartridge. A plumber commonly charges roughly $100 to $300 for a standard repair, with labor billed at $45 to $200 an hour. These are US estimates and vary by region and faucet.
Most faucet problems come down to one inexpensive part, found by checking where the water appears and fixed in under an hour. If repairs keep coming back, or the body and finish have run their course, it may be time for a new faucet. Browse the Insideast bathroom faucet collection: solid unlacquered brass and copper, handmade in Marrakech.
